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The harvest
Manual harvest is a must to collect intact grapes. The harvests last between 2 and 3 weeks somewhere between the end of August and the beginning of October, depening on the weather throughout the year.
Manual harvest is a must to collect intact grapes. The harvests last between 2 and 3 weeks somewhere between the end of August and the beginning of October, depening on the weather throughout the year.
Pressing
The production of white wine from predominantly red grapes (two thirds of the yield) is defined by five dominant principles:
Juice extraction is separeted into the «cuvée» and the «taille»
Juice extraction is strictly limited to 25.5 hectolitres per 4,000kg marc, separating the first pressing juice (the cuvée, representing 20.5hl) from the second (the taille, representing 5hl). Each has quite specific characteristics. The cuvée is the purest juice of the pulp, rich in sugar and acid (tartaric and malic). This results in wines with great finesse, subtle aromas, refreshing palate and a good aging potential. The taille is also rich in sugar, but acid content is lower while mineral content (especially potassium salts) and pigment concentrations are higher. Taille musts produce intensely aromatic wines – fruitier in youth than those made from the cuvee but they tend to age well.
Sulphuring
As the juice is extracted, it flows into open tanks (known locally as ‘belons’) where it is treated with sulphites (sulphur dioxide or SO2) at the rate of 6-10g/hl depending on the varietal, the condition of the grapes and the musts in question (whether cuvee or taille). Sulphites have antiseptic properties that help to inhibit the growth of moulds and unfriendly indigenous bacteria. Their antioxidant action safeguards the physicochemical and sensory quality of the wines.
Settling
Débourbage is the settling of the freshly pressed grape juice prior to fermentation, so as to produce wines with the purest expression of fruit.
The next stage is ‘débourbage’ (literally ‘de-sludging’): the process of allowing solids (particles of skin, pips, etc) to settle to the bottom of the juice. Naturally occurring enzymes or enzyme additives cause the suspended particles to clump together in flocs, which are eliminated 12-24 hours later when the wine is racked. These residues (1-4% of the total volume) must be declared to the authorities, and are then sent for distillation.
After racking, the clarified juice is transferred to the fermentation room to begin the winemaking process.
The production of white wine from predominantly red grapes (two thirds of the yield) is defined by five dominant principles:
- Pressing immediately after picking
- Whole-cluster pressing
- A gentle, gradual increase in pressure
- Low juice extraction
- Separating the juice into segments
Juice extraction is separeted into the «cuvée» and the «taille»
Juice extraction is strictly limited to 25.5 hectolitres per 4,000kg marc, separating the first pressing juice (the cuvée, representing 20.5hl) from the second (the taille, representing 5hl). Each has quite specific characteristics. The cuvée is the purest juice of the pulp, rich in sugar and acid (tartaric and malic). This results in wines with great finesse, subtle aromas, refreshing palate and a good aging potential. The taille is also rich in sugar, but acid content is lower while mineral content (especially potassium salts) and pigment concentrations are higher. Taille musts produce intensely aromatic wines – fruitier in youth than those made from the cuvee but they tend to age well.
Sulphuring
As the juice is extracted, it flows into open tanks (known locally as ‘belons’) where it is treated with sulphites (sulphur dioxide or SO2) at the rate of 6-10g/hl depending on the varietal, the condition of the grapes and the musts in question (whether cuvee or taille). Sulphites have antiseptic properties that help to inhibit the growth of moulds and unfriendly indigenous bacteria. Their antioxidant action safeguards the physicochemical and sensory quality of the wines.
Settling
Débourbage is the settling of the freshly pressed grape juice prior to fermentation, so as to produce wines with the purest expression of fruit.
The next stage is ‘débourbage’ (literally ‘de-sludging’): the process of allowing solids (particles of skin, pips, etc) to settle to the bottom of the juice. Naturally occurring enzymes or enzyme additives cause the suspended particles to clump together in flocs, which are eliminated 12-24 hours later when the wine is racked. These residues (1-4% of the total volume) must be declared to the authorities, and are then sent for distillation.
After racking, the clarified juice is transferred to the fermentation room to begin the winemaking process.
First fermentation
The primary, or alcoholic, fermentation of Champagne wines is the process that transforms the grape musts into wine: the yeast consumes the natural grape sugars, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2) along with other by-products that contribute to the sensory characteristics of the wine.
Primary fermentation takes place immediately after pressing, usually in stainless steel tanks though some producers still ferment their wines in wood.
Malolactic fermentation
Malolactic fermentation (MLF) is the process that transforms malic acid into lactic acid. Like all forms of fermentation, MLF influences wine aroma development, in this case making for softer, riper, generally creamier sensations. MLF is an optional process, used by all but a few Champagne makers who avoid it for the sake of crisp varietal expression.
We have chosen not to undergo the malolactic fermentation in the case of our Brut Excellence - finest vintage ottles we put on the market at least 10 years after bottling.
A strategic choice
MLF also generates by-products that modify the organoleptic profile of the wine, mainly by lowering its apparent acidity. Champagne winemakers are generally in favour of MLF, with the exception of a few producers who prefer to avoid it altogether. Most take a pragmatic view, considering it necessary for some wines but not for others.
The MLF process
Where MLF is considered desirable, the cellar temperature is maintained at around 18°C, and the wine tanks are inoculated with selected strains of lyophilized bacteria. The process is complete within 4-6 weeks, checking the rate of progress by monitoring total/titratable acidity, at which point the wines are drawn off and clarified.
Final stage: clarificationClarification may involve fining, filtering (using kieselguhr earth, membrane/cartridge-type filters or pad filters) cross-flow filtration or centrifuging. The aim is to eliminate the lees and other impurities, producing clear, natural base wines (known locally as ‘vins clairs’) that are ready for blending as a ‘cuvee’ (local term for a blended Champagne). Base wines are classified by varietal, vintage, vineyard (or sometimes the individual vineyard plot) and pressing fraction (whether cuvee or taille).
The primary, or alcoholic, fermentation of Champagne wines is the process that transforms the grape musts into wine: the yeast consumes the natural grape sugars, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2) along with other by-products that contribute to the sensory characteristics of the wine.
Primary fermentation takes place immediately after pressing, usually in stainless steel tanks though some producers still ferment their wines in wood.
Malolactic fermentation
Malolactic fermentation (MLF) is the process that transforms malic acid into lactic acid. Like all forms of fermentation, MLF influences wine aroma development, in this case making for softer, riper, generally creamier sensations. MLF is an optional process, used by all but a few Champagne makers who avoid it for the sake of crisp varietal expression.
We have chosen not to undergo the malolactic fermentation in the case of our Brut Excellence - finest vintage ottles we put on the market at least 10 years after bottling.
A strategic choice
MLF also generates by-products that modify the organoleptic profile of the wine, mainly by lowering its apparent acidity. Champagne winemakers are generally in favour of MLF, with the exception of a few producers who prefer to avoid it altogether. Most take a pragmatic view, considering it necessary for some wines but not for others.
The MLF process
Where MLF is considered desirable, the cellar temperature is maintained at around 18°C, and the wine tanks are inoculated with selected strains of lyophilized bacteria. The process is complete within 4-6 weeks, checking the rate of progress by monitoring total/titratable acidity, at which point the wines are drawn off and clarified.
Final stage: clarificationClarification may involve fining, filtering (using kieselguhr earth, membrane/cartridge-type filters or pad filters) cross-flow filtration or centrifuging. The aim is to eliminate the lees and other impurities, producing clear, natural base wines (known locally as ‘vins clairs’) that are ready for blending as a ‘cuvee’ (local term for a blended Champagne). Base wines are classified by varietal, vintage, vineyard (or sometimes the individual vineyard plot) and pressing fraction (whether cuvee or taille).
Blending
The blending process at the heart of Champagne winemaking plays on the diversity of nature, combining wines from different crus (growths), different grape varieties and different years.
Three dimensions of Champagne blending
Blending wines from different crus
There are so many subtle differences between the crus that no two blends are ever the same. The result is an array of wines that capture the multifaceted character of their appellation
Blending wines from different but complementary grape varieties
Marrying different grape varieties brings contrasting and complementary qualities to Champagne wines.
The annual weather variations in Champagne affect the quality of the grapes, making for very different vintages depending on how cold, hot, wet, etc it was in the year in question.
Champagne blending usually encompasses all of these three dimensions, though the winemaker may decide to focus on one dimension in particular.
By combining wines with different sensory characteristics (colours, aromas, flavours) the Champagne maker looks to create a wine that is greater than the sum of its parts – one with a carefully balanced harmony of notes in which no one note is dominant. The ultimate objective is the same today as it has always been: to create a sense of balance that is not found naturally and could not exist without human intervention.
The blending process at the heart of Champagne winemaking plays on the diversity of nature, combining wines from different crus (growths), different grape varieties and different years.
Three dimensions of Champagne blending
Blending wines from different crus
There are so many subtle differences between the crus that no two blends are ever the same. The result is an array of wines that capture the multifaceted character of their appellation
Blending wines from different but complementary grape varieties
Marrying different grape varieties brings contrasting and complementary qualities to Champagne wines.
- The Pinot Noir contributes aromas of red fruits and adds strength and body to the blend.
- The Pinot Meunier, the fastest-maturing component in Champagne, contributes supple body, intense fruit and roundness.
- The Chardonnay gives the blend finesse. As a young wine, it brings floral notes, sometimes with a mineral edge. It is the slowest to mature of the three Champagne varietals and the longest-lived.
The annual weather variations in Champagne affect the quality of the grapes, making for very different vintages depending on how cold, hot, wet, etc it was in the year in question.
Champagne blending usually encompasses all of these three dimensions, though the winemaker may decide to focus on one dimension in particular.
- A vintage Champagne commemorates a truly exceptional year by including no reserve wines at all..
- A single-varietal Champagne, whether Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noirs, celebrates the taste of a single grape variety.
- A single-vineyard Champagne expresses the distinctive qualities of a single cru, ‘lieu-dit’ (named vineyard plot) or sometimes a ‘clos’ (walled vineyard).
By combining wines with different sensory characteristics (colours, aromas, flavours) the Champagne maker looks to create a wine that is greater than the sum of its parts – one with a carefully balanced harmony of notes in which no one note is dominant. The ultimate objective is the same today as it has always been: to create a sense of balance that is not found naturally and could not exist without human intervention.
Bottling
Bottle fermentation transforms still wine to sparkling wine – hence the name «prise de mousse», literally ‘capturing the sparkle’.
Champagne wines may not be bottled until the January following the harvest.The winemaker kick-starts the effervescence by adding a sweet solution known as the ‘liqueur de tirage’ – still Champagne mixed with cane or beet sugar (20-24 grams/litre, for a rise in pressure by the end of fermentation of 5-6 atm, or 60 to 90 pounds per square inch) plus selected, acclimatized yeast cultures and additives that assist the ‘remuage’ process (riddling). These consist of bentonite or bentonite-alginate that make the sediment heavier, encouraging it to slide down the neck of the up-turned bottle and collect against the cork.
The rules of the Champagne appellation forbid ‘transvasage’: the transferring of the newly effervescent wine from one bottle to another (from a half-bottle to a jeroboam, for instance). All Champagne wines must be sold in the bottle in which they underwent their second fermentation. The bottles used must be made of strong glass, in accordance with strict specifications relating to pressure resistance and general durability. They must be capable of withstanding high pressure and repeated handling.
The bottling stopper
Once filled, the bottles are hermetically sealed with a polyethylene stopper known as a ‘bidule’, held in place by a wire cage/metal cap. A few producers still use cork for the ‘tirage’ (bottling) stopper. The bottles are then transferred to the cellar and stacked ‘sur lattes’: horizontally, row upon row, these days mostly in steel crates on a palette.
Inside the bottle, the wine undergoes a second fermentation that continues for 6-8 weeks. The yeasts consume the sugar, releasing alcohol and carbon dioxide, along with esters and other superior alcohols that contribute to the wine’s sensory profile.
Bottle fermentation transforms still wine to sparkling wine – hence the name «prise de mousse», literally ‘capturing the sparkle’.
Champagne wines may not be bottled until the January following the harvest.The winemaker kick-starts the effervescence by adding a sweet solution known as the ‘liqueur de tirage’ – still Champagne mixed with cane or beet sugar (20-24 grams/litre, for a rise in pressure by the end of fermentation of 5-6 atm, or 60 to 90 pounds per square inch) plus selected, acclimatized yeast cultures and additives that assist the ‘remuage’ process (riddling). These consist of bentonite or bentonite-alginate that make the sediment heavier, encouraging it to slide down the neck of the up-turned bottle and collect against the cork.
The rules of the Champagne appellation forbid ‘transvasage’: the transferring of the newly effervescent wine from one bottle to another (from a half-bottle to a jeroboam, for instance). All Champagne wines must be sold in the bottle in which they underwent their second fermentation. The bottles used must be made of strong glass, in accordance with strict specifications relating to pressure resistance and general durability. They must be capable of withstanding high pressure and repeated handling.
The bottling stopper
Once filled, the bottles are hermetically sealed with a polyethylene stopper known as a ‘bidule’, held in place by a wire cage/metal cap. A few producers still use cork for the ‘tirage’ (bottling) stopper. The bottles are then transferred to the cellar and stacked ‘sur lattes’: horizontally, row upon row, these days mostly in steel crates on a palette.
Inside the bottle, the wine undergoes a second fermentation that continues for 6-8 weeks. The yeasts consume the sugar, releasing alcohol and carbon dioxide, along with esters and other superior alcohols that contribute to the wine’s sensory profile.
Second fermentation
Deep inside the cellars, the bottles embark on a long period of maturation – a key phase in Champagne making in which the cellar play a critical role by keeping the wines at a relatively constant temperature of 12°C (54°F).
Principle of maturation on leesThe lees mainly consist of yeasts that have multiplied in the bottle and formed a deposit. By the end of second fermentation, all of the sugars have been consumed and the yeasts gradually die and decompose. This process is known as autolysis, releasing molecules that are slowly transformed as they interact with those in the wine.
A two-fold process
The special tirage stopper meanwhile allows minute quantities of oxygen to enter the bottle and small amounts of carbon dioxide to escape - in other words, the seal is not perfectly airtight. The choice of stopper is critical in determining the speed of the Champagne’s development.
Maturation on lees therefore involves two processes that occur simultaneously:
Duration of maturation on lees
Maturation on lees is a continuous process. The greatest Champagne wines can spend several decades maturing in the Champagne cellars.
All Champagne wines must spend at least 15 months in the bottle before release, of which 12 months maturation on lees is required for non-vintage cuvees. The minimum for vintage cuvees is three years. In practice, most Champagne wines are cellared for much longer: 2-3 years for non-vintage wines and 4-10 years for vintage Champagne.
The minimum aging periods required by law for Champagne wines are much longer than for any other sparklings. European wine regulations specify a minimum of just 90 days for effervescent wines in general.
Deep inside the cellars, the bottles embark on a long period of maturation – a key phase in Champagne making in which the cellar play a critical role by keeping the wines at a relatively constant temperature of 12°C (54°F).
Principle of maturation on leesThe lees mainly consist of yeasts that have multiplied in the bottle and formed a deposit. By the end of second fermentation, all of the sugars have been consumed and the yeasts gradually die and decompose. This process is known as autolysis, releasing molecules that are slowly transformed as they interact with those in the wine.
A two-fold process
The special tirage stopper meanwhile allows minute quantities of oxygen to enter the bottle and small amounts of carbon dioxide to escape - in other words, the seal is not perfectly airtight. The choice of stopper is critical in determining the speed of the Champagne’s development.
Maturation on lees therefore involves two processes that occur simultaneously:
- Yeast autolysis
- Slow oxidation via the stopper
Duration of maturation on lees
Maturation on lees is a continuous process. The greatest Champagne wines can spend several decades maturing in the Champagne cellars.
All Champagne wines must spend at least 15 months in the bottle before release, of which 12 months maturation on lees is required for non-vintage cuvees. The minimum for vintage cuvees is three years. In practice, most Champagne wines are cellared for much longer: 2-3 years for non-vintage wines and 4-10 years for vintage Champagne.
The minimum aging periods required by law for Champagne wines are much longer than for any other sparklings. European wine regulations specify a minimum of just 90 days for effervescent wines in general.
Riddling
Towards the end of their long resting period, the bottles must be moved and rotated to loosen the sediment (a mixture of dead yeasts and riddling aids) thrown off by second fermentation.Known as ‘remuage’ (ridding), this process causes the sediment to collect in the neck of the bottle in preparation for disgorgement: the ejecting of the sediment under pressure that then leaves the wine perfectly clear.
Riddling involves the gradual tilting of the bottle neck-down (‘ sur pointe’), meanwhile rotating it by small increments, clockwise and anti-clockwise. As the angle of tilt increases, the forces of gravity draw the sediment into the neck.
Remuage is still sometimes done manually, using a shaking and twisting technique practised over the centuries by skilled cellar masters. A good ‘remueur’ (bottle turner) can handle roughly 40,000 bottles a day, with the bottles placed neck down in a wooden ‘pupitre’ (A-frame-shaped riddling rack).
The bottles are rotated by stages, 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn at a time, to the right or left, with a chalk mark on the bottom of the bottle for reference. The objective is to consolidate the sediments and leave the wine crystal clear. Manual remuage takes 4-6 weeks and involves on average 25 turns per bottle.
Automated remuage is now much more common, using a machine called a ‘gyropalette’ that can process 500 bottles in a single operation. Gyropalettes work 24 hours a day and take a fraction of the time (one week instead of six,) at no expense to quality.
On completion of remuage, the bottles are neck-down (‘sur pointes’) and ready for disgorgement.
Towards the end of their long resting period, the bottles must be moved and rotated to loosen the sediment (a mixture of dead yeasts and riddling aids) thrown off by second fermentation.Known as ‘remuage’ (ridding), this process causes the sediment to collect in the neck of the bottle in preparation for disgorgement: the ejecting of the sediment under pressure that then leaves the wine perfectly clear.
Riddling involves the gradual tilting of the bottle neck-down (‘ sur pointe’), meanwhile rotating it by small increments, clockwise and anti-clockwise. As the angle of tilt increases, the forces of gravity draw the sediment into the neck.
Remuage is still sometimes done manually, using a shaking and twisting technique practised over the centuries by skilled cellar masters. A good ‘remueur’ (bottle turner) can handle roughly 40,000 bottles a day, with the bottles placed neck down in a wooden ‘pupitre’ (A-frame-shaped riddling rack).
The bottles are rotated by stages, 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn at a time, to the right or left, with a chalk mark on the bottom of the bottle for reference. The objective is to consolidate the sediments and leave the wine crystal clear. Manual remuage takes 4-6 weeks and involves on average 25 turns per bottle.
Automated remuage is now much more common, using a machine called a ‘gyropalette’ that can process 500 bottles in a single operation. Gyropalettes work 24 hours a day and take a fraction of the time (one week instead of six,) at no expense to quality.
On completion of remuage, the bottles are neck-down (‘sur pointes’) and ready for disgorgement.
Disgorgement
The purpose of disgorgement is to eliminate the deposit that has collected in the neck of the bottle as a result of the remuage process.
Disgorgement is a critical point in the life of Champagne wine, the grand finale after many months and sometimes years of peaceful maturation on lees.
Mechanical disgorgementThe neck of the bottle is plunged into a refrigerating solution at – 27°C. The sediment (in the form of a frozen plug) is then ejected under pressure when the bottle is opened, with minimum loss of wine and pressure.
Disgorgement triggers a short, sharp intake of oxygen, which together with dosage (see below) will have a significant impact on aroma development.
Bottles with metal caps are generally disgorged by machine.
Dosage
‘Dosage’ is the last step before final corking. This is the addition of a small quantity of ‘liqueur de dosage’ to the wine – also known as the ‘liqueur d’expédition’
A quantity of dosage to suit the style of wineDosage liqueur generally contains 500-750 grams of sugar per litre. The quantity added varies according to the style of Champagne:
The final touch that complements the style of wineThe role of dosage in the wine’s sensory development varies according to the style of Champagne. If the winemaker is happy with the wine as it stands, the liqueur de dosage will consist of a mixture of sugar and the same wine as the bottle holds.
Alternatively, if a final additional touch of aroma is thought desirable, the liqueur de dosage may be made with a reserve wine – great Champagne wines set aside for long aging in casks, barrels or even magnums. These add an extra dimension to the winemaker’s repertory of flavours, creating a palette of flavours from which to choose the perfect finishing touch. A few months before dosage, winemakers experiment with different liqueurs, finally selecting the one with the most complementary characteristics.
The purpose of disgorgement is to eliminate the deposit that has collected in the neck of the bottle as a result of the remuage process.
Disgorgement is a critical point in the life of Champagne wine, the grand finale after many months and sometimes years of peaceful maturation on lees.
Mechanical disgorgementThe neck of the bottle is plunged into a refrigerating solution at – 27°C. The sediment (in the form of a frozen plug) is then ejected under pressure when the bottle is opened, with minimum loss of wine and pressure.
Disgorgement triggers a short, sharp intake of oxygen, which together with dosage (see below) will have a significant impact on aroma development.
Bottles with metal caps are generally disgorged by machine.
Dosage
‘Dosage’ is the last step before final corking. This is the addition of a small quantity of ‘liqueur de dosage’ to the wine – also known as the ‘liqueur d’expédition’
A quantity of dosage to suit the style of wineDosage liqueur generally contains 500-750 grams of sugar per litre. The quantity added varies according to the style of Champagne:
- doux more than 50 grams of sugar per litre
- demi-sec 32-50 grams of sugar per litre
- sec 17-32 grams of sugar per litre
- extra dry 12-17 grams of sugar per litre
- brut less than 12 grams of sugar per litre
- extra brut 0-6 grams of sugar per litre
The final touch that complements the style of wineThe role of dosage in the wine’s sensory development varies according to the style of Champagne. If the winemaker is happy with the wine as it stands, the liqueur de dosage will consist of a mixture of sugar and the same wine as the bottle holds.
Alternatively, if a final additional touch of aroma is thought desirable, the liqueur de dosage may be made with a reserve wine – great Champagne wines set aside for long aging in casks, barrels or even magnums. These add an extra dimension to the winemaker’s repertory of flavours, creating a palette of flavours from which to choose the perfect finishing touch. A few months before dosage, winemakers experiment with different liqueurs, finally selecting the one with the most complementary characteristics.
After dosage comes final corking, followed by ‘poignettage’ (vigorous shaking of the bottle) and ‘mirage’ (inspection to check the wine’s limpidity). The wine is then returned to the cellar to age in bottle for several months before release.
CorkingThe bottle is sent for corking immediately after dosage. Today’s corks have a base section made of reconstituted cork granules, topped by two slices of natural cork. The section that comes into contact with the wine is known as the ‘miroir’ (mirror). The cork must display the name of the Champagne Appellation and state the vintage where relevant.
The cork is squeezed into the neck of the bottle, covered with a protective metal cap (capsule), then held in place with a ‘muselet’ (wire cage) to make an airtight seal.
This new cork, like its plastic predecessor, does allow for some exchange with the outside air, which is why the wine continues to age over the years.
PoignettageThe bottle is then shaken vigorously (what’s known as ‘poignettage’) so that the dosage liqueur marries perfectly with the wine.
Packaging
This is the last stage before the bottle leaves the Champagne cellars and is released for shipment.
Packaging and labelling requirements for Champagne wines:
The cork and wire cage are wrapped in foil (the ‘coiffe’), which extends down the neck of the bottle to the ‘collerette’ (neck band fitted on most Champagne bottles).
A label is placed on the front of the bottle, and sometimes on the back too, stating specific mandatory items along with other consumer information.
CorkingThe bottle is sent for corking immediately after dosage. Today’s corks have a base section made of reconstituted cork granules, topped by two slices of natural cork. The section that comes into contact with the wine is known as the ‘miroir’ (mirror). The cork must display the name of the Champagne Appellation and state the vintage where relevant.
The cork is squeezed into the neck of the bottle, covered with a protective metal cap (capsule), then held in place with a ‘muselet’ (wire cage) to make an airtight seal.
This new cork, like its plastic predecessor, does allow for some exchange with the outside air, which is why the wine continues to age over the years.
PoignettageThe bottle is then shaken vigorously (what’s known as ‘poignettage’) so that the dosage liqueur marries perfectly with the wine.
Packaging
This is the last stage before the bottle leaves the Champagne cellars and is released for shipment.
Packaging and labelling requirements for Champagne wines:
The cork and wire cage are wrapped in foil (the ‘coiffe’), which extends down the neck of the bottle to the ‘collerette’ (neck band fitted on most Champagne bottles).
A label is placed on the front of the bottle, and sometimes on the back too, stating specific mandatory items along with other consumer information.
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